
We’ve rented a cottage on Ishigaki Island for a few days. Our arrival yesterday on this, the second of our three vacation islands over three weeks, was uneventful, except for the bumpy, engine-roaring landing by the small commuter plane bringing us from Okinawa. After a morning bath it’s time for me to make my breakfast, which means overcoming the challenge of the cottage’s modern Japanese-style kitchen. As you may imagine, everything is small, which means Yui and I can’t comfortably stand in it, side by side, and cook. “Japanese men don’t cook, so there’s no need for a lot of room in the kitchen.”, Yui enlightens me, after listening to my pithy observation about how size really matters. I reach for the fresh eggs we bought before our arrival yesterday, and extract a frying pan from the slide-out rack built into the cooker that reminds me of something out of the Bat Cave. Everything in this vacation cottage kitchen has been well-thought out, designed by someone who wants you to have everything, but not have to look at it all the time. Western kitchens, by contrast, are big on display. In my Maui home the kitchen was as big as many Japanese apartments, and you just had to put out all your gadgets, storage racks, and kitchen implements to make it look homey. Not so here, or in any of the other Serviced Apartments we had occupied in Tokyo.
To cook my scrambled eggs I first have to turn on the burner. I scan the front of the cooker, whose buttons and displays look like they could launch a cruise missile towards North Korea if I choose unwisely. Yui’s psychic sense picks up my silent confusion from the living room where she’s watching the news, and she squeezes past me to punch three buttons - and we have liftoff. My pan begins heating the oil (there’s a butter shortage in Japan), and now I need to find the salt to add to my egg and tomato concoction. Fumbling around with Japanese-labeled containers while searching for the familiar sight of little white crystals, I feel like an alien fallen to Earth, unable to fit in like everyone else. My grumbles are growing in volume; I just want to cook eggs like any other adult, and to do so with a minimum of fuss. Now, where is the damn spatula? Like a genius I suddenly remember I’m in Asia, and I reach for the cooking chopsticks. Soon I’m stirring away at my scramble, in unusual contact with the eggs via the chopsticks, and wondering how I’m going to be able to turn the oven off without Yui coming to my rescue one more time. A lucky stab at a button, and the power dies with a happy beep. I’m convinced that the next generation of Japanese cookers will audibly thank me for cooking safely, and then wish me a happy day.
Out on the porch I settle down to my hard-won food, and begin to watch a video on my MacBook Pro laptop. The sun is shining, crows are noisy, the goat next door bleats in the background. Out on the road an elderly and hunched-over Japanese woman pauses to admire a flower growing opposite my deck. She sees me, and bows. I smile, and bow back, forgetting my foolish kitchen pride in her simple act of courtesy. After all, it’s the start of a beautiful day, and the eggs actually taste pretty good.